November 30, 2012 / by Geoffrey Heath34 comments
William, that France is developing the brand of shirts tailor-made Emmanuel Berg (originally German brand), we proposed to test its products. So it’s true before that had already heard you of several similar services of made-to-measure shirts.
But it had not yet had the opportunity to feel of the (really) high-quality other than ready-to-wear. Now it is made (and it’s always useful to have an overview in order to then judge the interest of such or such marks in entry and mid-tier).
It should be noted that we stay here in affordable custom: I’m so not much (= the real “tailor-made” purists) where a breastplate is first made to measure (with an expensive output). Here we stay on classic custom made, with an already existing plastron that is airbrushed as a result.
You will see that I purposely chose a shirt cut in a cotton patterns, history of fun and change a little bit of white, grey and blue shirts (especially since I no longer work in a company with strict dress codes: the opposite is now…).
As you can see in the photo, it’s a kind of liberty print less floral and more airy. Liberty is a print that is very common in women but used much less in humans. The name comes from the London Liberty & Co store which widely popularized this pattern at the beginning of the 20th century.
Here are some examples:
I will say that in practice, it is a bit the female equivalent of the paisley, this Eastern ground we sometimes cross ties or scarves:
How to wear a shirt with print?
But back to the floral prints: it’s actually rather feminine and responsible. And still I did not get the liberty print the more girly.
The one I chose is quite airy: I’ll say it’s a middle (although I’m not sure you can really call the fabric I chose to print “liberty”).
On bundles of fabric to the tailor, patterns can be scary. Yet it is easy to integrate into an outfit:
- The print is easier to wear in layering as it ground surface is smaller and it shows less, all simply.
- Break the feminine side of the pattern with the resolutely male clothing : a nice suit, mesh, or even the beard of 3 days,
- Mitigate the grounds either remaining in the same color range, either with gray,.
- Do not bid with other grounds under penalty to result in an outfit that cause seizures in kittens.
Test of the shirt tailor-made Emmanuel Berg
Big big quality
It is clearly the shirt the more qualitative I could observe, we’re still a bit above Melinda Glossor The human comedy. The confection is extremely precise and details of the high-quality shirt are there.
The neck is particularly clean. By the way know that inside of a pass (his editing) is indicative of the quality of a shirt. On the entry level inside the cervix is stiffened by a piece of cardboard. Amount range we then find linings with an extra layer of Poplin or sometimes a little thicker canvas.
And on the very high-quality, the collar is composed of several parts inside, like a duct blazer.Attention do not believe that a pass inside irregular is a sign of poor quality.
A good cut but a bit behind compared to the extreme quality of the Assembly
The cut of the shirt is also satisfactory. However, this is a bespoke shirt, is not as long as it’s the shirt that fits you best.
This shirt will be very useful thing she meets a small morphological defect I have: a strong enough neck that made that shirts to fit at the shoulders rarely close to the neck or choke me a little.
Also notice the “textured” effect of the pattern when we see it from a little further.
Article update : I forgot to say but I lost 3 or 4 pounds between the action and the photo shoot. A perspective so because the shirt remains very well cut to the shoulders and pectorals, where weight changes affect little.
And once the shirt is received, change if necessary so that it was perfect. For example, mine must be slightly recintree (I must say losing 4kgs takes a few cms in the stomach) and perhaps shortened arms. This means that the second will be perfect.
Finally, the first is missed, Emmanuel Berg the redone at his own expense so if not possible to take him to the Retoucher. After this is not the case with all blouses online, so check before ordering how it goes if you do not like the shirt we deliver you.
Ready-to-wear VS custom made
Experience of this cut me wrong perspective on the so-called perfection of made-to-measure VS approximation of the ready-to-wear, for me, it is a myth unless you go to craftsmen tailors. Indeed there are one or two ready-to-wear brands that fit me better than the conventional measure. So there there are those who may say “but the blouse has done its job?”. And I say to them: “not at all”.
You go in a tailored blouse or a brand of ready-to-wear, you agree in both cases a stylistic bias as the craftsman or the brand. The complete set of measurements will never give the same shirt at all tailors, because some give ease somewhere or another, others have some biases very close to the body, and so on. But you’re always a little going blind, because it is the tailor who decides in the end. Try Mensshirtsshop for custom dress shirt for men.
Conversely, with ready-to-wear, if the choice is rigid, you know in any case where you are going because you try the garment. You then find you the brand that fits your body type by testing across.
As for the cost argument, it does not. The PAP and the SM (except master cutters and large houses) are today like love at the same quality level: therefore it is ultimately a choice according to your needs:
- The PAP will find products more “fashion”, out of the classic, and to know directly what you buy.
- SM will however go to correct your some morphological defects if they are outside the area of ready-to-wear, like: “I find no shirt with arms long enough”, or “when closed to the neck, shirt the rest of the shirt is too big”. Also note a greater choice of colors and fabrics, but a lesser choice on the variety of cuts.
Balance sheet of the test
I think we can say that it is the shirt the more up-market we had to test to date.
In the end, the price is actually expensive (€179 for this one), does not hide from it. But the price remains honest under service made-to-measure and the extreme quality of the finishes. It is essentially the fabric choice that will affect the price, the entry level on simpler popelines (but already very qualitative) starts at €130, or the price of a high-quality shirt in the PAP.
Specifically, William (son of Alain Figaret) moves to Paris and suburbs to take your measurements, and the shirt is then delivered to you. Measurement at home service is always offered. Or you can make your own by someone who is there knows (beware: action not be invented, and it is especially not alone in front of her mirror!) and send them to William More info here.
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